Paris Fashion Week Briefing: The real cost of a new creative director

3 weeks ago 10

Few fashion show seasons have felt as pivotal as this one. With creative director shifts at major houses like Tom Ford, Dries Van Noten and Givenchy, the industry is watching closely as new visionaries step in to shape the next chapter of luxury fashion. The reactions? A mix of cautious optimism and outright exhilaration.

If there was one moment that sent ripples through the industry, it was Haider Ackermann’s debut at Tom Ford on March 5. Seasoned insider and former Tom Ford former merchandising director Erin Mullaney Page called it a rare industry moment that happens “maybe every five years.” Ackermann was appointed as creative director of Tom Ford on September 4, 2024, assuming immediate responsibility for all fashion categories, including menswear, womenswear, accessories and eyewear.

Ackermann’s take on the house’s iconic aesthetic was as sleek and sensual as expected but infused with a newfound modernity. This included low-slung leather trousers, ultra-high-cut gowns in butter yellow and pool blue, and a bold lipstick-red trench.

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